2011 Brauneberger Juffer Sonnenuhr Spatlese

Thomas Haag’s auction-bound 2011 Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Spatlese A.P. #17 – selected from a parcel planted in the late 1980s near the eponymous sundial – is vividly scented and flavored with very ripe nectarine and quince headily wreathed in gardenia and backed by fresh lime, mingled with nut oils, nut pastes and saliva-liberating salinity. The purity, length, and seductive polish and creaminess here are fantastic, while primary juiciness and salinity guarantee no lack of mouthwatering sheer refreshment. For all of its richness, calling this “Spatlese” is entirely appropriate to its delicacy and vivacity. Plan to follow it through at least 2035 because this extraordinary wine – while its seductive pleasures should not be missed now – will likely become yet more fascinating and alluring a decade or two hence. Thomas Haag didn’t begin harvesting until October 3 – immediately before which, he says, it was too hot – and then picked for 23 straight days. He has every reason to complement the ripe yet filigree results, a description that, happily, applies almost as much to his dry as to his residually sweet bottlings. Except for his two Grosse Gewachs – bottled in May – and a Niederberg Helden T.B.A. that was still fermenting as of last autumn, all of Thomas Haag’s 2011s were bottled already in March and April following harvest. Importer: Rudi Wiest, Cellars International, Carlsbad, CA; tel. (800) 596-9463