2007 Niederhauser Hermannshohle Grosses Gewachs Trocken

The 2007 Niederhauser Hermannshohle Riesling Grosses Gewachs exhibits the mesmerizing diversity for which the site - and in particular Donnhoff's representations of it - are renowned. Toasted seeds, nut oils, pink grapefruit rind, and illusive (perhaps orchid like?) floral notes are among the elements that inform a wine of palpable stuffing yet refined frame, and suffused with saline, savory, and stony elements that - along with nut oils and a coffee-like low tone - are the last tones to resonate in its long finish. This is complex more by way of layering than of interaction such as exhibited by the corresponding Dellchen. It will be worth pondering for at least another 15 years. While Donnhoff returned to his usual humility in characterizing the latest vintage - following an atypically unabashed outbreak of enthusiasm in describing his indeed amazing collection of 2006s - it is clear that the 2007s delight him in a similar way, as outstanding representations of their respective sites at Spatlese ripeness. (Note, incidentally, that the Pradikat has been removed from any dry wines here, in keeping with a new convention of the Nahe branch of the VDP growers- association.) -Within that range of ripeness,- he submits, -one best-recognizes the site. Here you have nothing exaggerated, but instead a normal harvest, meaning a documentation of the vineyards, each a different face on the landscape. They all went to the same school and had the same opportunities- he adds, gesturing to the long row of Spatlesen on the tasting table, and alluding to his own role as well as the vintage-s. -It was a bit intimidating this year at harvest,- he added, -because when the grapes are perfect, you can only make mistakes.- I had the rare fortune to taste this collection twice, and like so many 2007s (a comment that even more growers made about their 2008s) the wines were much more impressive in September than in Spring. A 2007 Hermannshohle Trockenbeerenauslese, by the way, is still trying to become wine after two years. Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300