2008 Riesling Grand Cru Hengst Samain

Another truly dry Josmeyer Riesling – though at 13.5% alcohol significantly elevated from the others in this collection – their 2008 Riesling Hengst Semain displays the cool concentration of herbal essences and chalky minerality that is associated with the wind-swept, rocky portion of the Hengst from which this bottling always emanates. Apricot, apricot kernel, nut oils, fresh lime, and hints of white truffle add alluring complexity that persists in dynamic interplay on the lingering finish. This rich yet elegant Riesling ought to be worth following for at least 20 years. Jean Meyer, his daughter Isabelle, and son-in-law Christopher Ehrhart were clearly challenged by the 2009 vintage in their efforts to obtain dry or judiciously sweet and elegant wine of the sort that is this estate’s long-term signature, but they managed to successfully tread a fine line with a great many of their bottlings – not quite all of which I had time to taste – and some wines usually offered weren’t attempted or weren’t bottled this year. Jean Meyer has never favored late harvest and his natural inclination to pick sooner in 2009 certainly did not sacrifice ripeness of flavor. The 2008 vintage was also mixed in success, a fungal overtone in certain wines bound to at best be controversial; but the most successful (principally Rieslings) outstanding and likely to age well. Importer: Terlato Wines International, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. (847) 604-8900

(13.5% alcohol, 6 g/l r.s. and 7.4 acidity) Pale-medium bright yellow. Riper on the nose than the regular Hengst, offering expressive aromas of peach, orange peel, brown spices and botanical herbs. Then surprisingly dry and backward on the palate, with strong acidity keeping the powerful, chewy flavors of lemon and stone under wraps. Less showy today than the regular Hengst and a bit disorganized. This very tactile, long riesling needs a good five or six years of cellaring to harmonize.