2006 Pinot Gris Clos Jebsal SGN Trie Speciale

(for 375 ml.; 6.8% alcohol, with 333 g/l r.s.) Dark orange-brown. Stewed orange, honey, molasses and medicinal herbs on the high-toned nose. Hugely concentrated, glyceral, honeyed and sweet but with racy acidity giving energy to the mid-palate. The endless, thick finish stains the palate with honey and resin. (I also tasted the 2007 version, which was still in oak, and though I thought it might ultimately top this 2006 in sheer material, it still had too much baby fat to assess with confidence and will need much time to absorb its spicy oak; the dark orange-colored 2007 Pinot Gris Clos Windsbuhl Selection de Grains Nobles Trie Speciale, also incredibly concentrated and also tasted prior to bottling, showed racier acidity and a lighter touch, finishing with more lift.)