2009 Pouilly Fume

Sourced from their Chateau du Nozet and in three famous adjacent communes (Pouilly, St Andelain and Tracy); and like all of Ladoucette’s wines, matured entirely in tank, their flagship 2009 Pouilly-Fume is very obviously a product of its ripe vintage. Juicy grapefruit takes on an aura of its candied rind; pineapple near the core bites, but is mingled with a hint of caramel; and there is a subtle sense of creaminess against which the stony mineral cast and fruit skin tartness stand out in stark relief. The bitter side of green herbs and citrus zest extends the finish, albeit in a rather opaque and not especially juicy or refreshing manner. This is impressive in its big-boned (albeit alcoholically moderate) manner. It might well “live” for the better part of a decade – as have so many of its predecessors, including those from unusually ripe vintages – but I do not envision time being on its side and would be inclined to polish off bottles over the next 2-3 years. Regrettably, it had been four years since I lasted tasted wine from the renowned domaines of Patrick de Ladoucette, and press of time still compelled me to settle for samples that I could obtain stateside, which consisted of those releases currently on the U.S. wholesale market – hardly sufficient to bridge the gap in my coverage or to bring it up-to-date with my accounts of other estates in this report, but more than sufficient to obtain a clear impression that style and quality remain unchanged. Importer: Maisons Marques & Domaines, Oakland, CA; tel. (510) 587-2000