1970 Palmer (Unsaleable)

The 1970 Palmer is a vintage that I have tasted on several occasions, although recently, I have encountered some variation, including a rather rum example in 2015. The most recent example has an attractive tobacco-infused nose, perhaps more akin to a Saint-Julien than a Margaux. The palate is medium-bodied with a firm backbone, a slight dryness around the edges and fine salinity with lightly-spiced cedar and tobacco notes on the finish. This is a solid 1970 Margaux, though I would not keep it long-term.

Tasted at the Château Palmer vertical in London, the 1970 Château Palmer (again) disappoints compared to marvelous showing in the 1990s, suggesting that its decline has been far more rapid than say the 1966 or the 1961 even. It has quite a deep hue with brick rim. The bouquet starts well with a succinct nose: pomegranate, wilted violet and bay leaf, nicely defined, if lacking horsepower. The palate is medium-bodied with a lightly spiced entry. It does not own the finesse or complexity of those aforementioned vintages and it seems to lose some of its flesh and concentration to what is an austere, drying finish. There is nothing terrible here, but it is a Palmer that has obviously seen better days. Perhaps larger formats are continuing to offer pleasure? Tasted May 2015.

Magnum. A very magnificent wine with much more fruit and charm than many 1970 bordeaux. Real life and luxuriousness of lacy texture. Very complete. More solid and substantial than the 1975, and purer too. Very sweet and smooth even at 36 years old and far from decrepit. A fine representative of both vintage and commune. (JR)