1997 Vin de Pays de l'Herault

From magnum. Mid crimson. Light but fragrant nose with something in the violets/liquorice spectrum. Transparent and very sweet. A bit of acidity on the finish. But it has lasted very well. Very attractive drinking now even if on the way down. (JR)

Different lots that will be assembled to craft the 1997 La Grange des Peres red were tasted, and the above range of scores reflects this hypothetical blend. The dark ruby-colored Cabernet lot (from yields of 14 hectoliters per hectare) offers complex, spicy, blackberry aromas, and elegant, black cherry, spice, herb, and rose flavors. The Mourvedre (harvested at 16.5% natural potential alcohol) was incredibly Rayas-like in taste. This hedonistic fruit bomb reveals candied cherry, kirsch aromas that give way to a mouthful of mocha-covered red berries. This is a delicious, sultry, creamy wine on its own, and will ultimately be a substantial part of the final blend. The bottled 1997 will most assuredly be an outstanding wine, and certainly one of the finest efforts from this difficult vintage. Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel (510) 524-1524.

Dark red-ruby. Smoky, truffley aroma of redcurrant, red cherry and tobacco; distinct note of fruit compote. Superripe and jammy in the mouth; quite fat for the vintage. Finishes with grainy tannins and a hint of acidity. "The mourvedre tasted like grenache in '97," noted Vaille. I did not taste the '99 cabernet so I can't comment on the '99 red. But the syrah I tasted was ripe-bordering-on-confectionery, and three lots of mourvedre showed super-sweetness of fruit and uncanny acidity. The richest lot, which probably will not be part of the '99 assemblage, was harvested early, with an incredible 18.5% potential alcohol. It still carried 50 grams per liter of residual sugar in early May but came across as only moderately sweet due to its razor-sharp 10 grams per liter of acidity (expressed as tartaric). (Kermit Lynch, Berkeley, CA, and Daniel Johnnes/Jeroboam Wines, New York, NY)