1996 Clos St Denis

The 1996 Clos Saint-Denis Grand Cru has certainly aged well in bottle. The bouquet is quite earthy with limited black fruit, faint traces of iodine and espresso emerging with time. The palate is medium-bodied and quite stocky, yet well balanced with good grip and a sinewy but not overbearing finish. It does not possess the complexity to knock your socks off, but it conveys a sense of breeding. Tasted at the 1243 Club in Beaune.

I was inspired by this medium-to-dark ruby-colored wine. Revealing a sublime, almost spiritual, nose of flowers, perfume, plums, and spices, this medium-to-full-bodied wine has great refinement and elegance. Candied red and black fruits as well as stones are found in its pure, delightful, and lingering flavor profile. Anticipated maturity: 2002-2007. Importer: Kobrand, Inc., New York, NY; (212) 490-9300.

Good deep red. Highly aromatic nose combines black raspberry, blueberry, coffee, smoke, herbs and flowers. Sweet and pliant, with moderate complexity and depth. Finishes with easy tannins. The palate does not quite deliver what the nose promises.