1999 Hermitage Blanc Rocoules

The 1999 Hermitage Les Rocoules is sporting extraordinary levels of glycerin and merits a serious wow! The natural alcohol is 14.8% and the wine (93% Marsanne and 7% Roussanne) is unctuously-textured, with a terrific nose of rose petals, liquid minerals, honeyed pineapple, and hints of sherry. It boasts explosive ripeness, a viscous texture, and tremendous purity as well as length. It will undoubtedly close down in a few years, re-emerge after a decade, and last for 25 years. Anticipated maturity: now-2006; 2012-2025. This is a serious white Hermitage that will be enjoyed by the handful of enthusiasts who appreciate these underrated dry offerings. (Thomas Jefferson thought it was France's single greatest dry white wine.) Not a single new oak barrel can be found in Sorrel's cellars, which are on the main street of Tain l'Hermitage. His one concession to modernism is his air-conditioned cellar. Production is small, with 1,000 cases of white and red Hermitage, and the rest Crozes-Hermitage. Importers: Cynthia Hurley Wine Imports, West Newton, MA; fax (617) 965-7530 and World Wine Import, Atlanta, GA; fax (404) 842-1487

Pale yellow-gold. Honeyed apple, crystallized yellow plum and white flowers on the superripe nose. Spicy, fat and full; a big, rich wine that currently seems a bit unwieldy with alcohol owing to its uncompromising dryness. But the healthy acids should ultimately result in a balanced wine. Quite closed today in the middle palate.