2007 Gigondas Les Racines

Ruby-red. Ripe dark berries and kirsch on the nose, with complicating notes of licorice and black tea. Rich, deep and powerful, with a distinctly ripe character to the dark fruit flavors. Fresher on the finish, which features chewy tannins and leaves smoke and licorice notes behind. This is a bit inscrutable today, hiding more than it's showing.

Even better is the 2007 Gigondas Les Racines Vieilles Vignes. Its dense ruby/purple hue is accompanied by an extraordinary bouquet of black raspberries, kirsch, licorice, crushed rocks, and flowers. Full-bodied with sensational texture, purity, and length as well as remarkable elegance and freshness, this stunning Gigondas can be enjoyed over the next 15-20 years. Bravo! Partners Daniel Brunier and Kermit Lynch impeccably run this estate. I should also give a nod to Kermit Lynch’s latest musical endeavor, his brilliant CD called Man’s Temptation, which I highly recommend (particularly the song Gare de Lyon). Les Pallieres’ 2008s are two of the finest Gigondas I tasted in what is a very mediocre vintage for that appellation. Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524