2009 Chardonnay Pegasus Bay

All Mendoza clone. Viticulturist Danny Shuster lived with Ivan and Chris for six months and he sourced the cuttings. Hand-picked and crushed on the way to the press with the stalks on so you keep the acidity and get high solids to build structure. Ambient yeast, fermented in puncheons (25% new), malo in spring is partial. Bâtonnage only to help if ferment is slow. 12 months in puncheon and then in tank on fine lees for three months to integrate the oak. Lovely smoky citrus. Creamy and mealy and rich and some char and toast. Savoury, fresh and lovely. (JH)

RS 1.4 g/l. Pale with a greenish glint. Just a hint of toast and struck match. Lovely savoury mealy citrus. Even though the sample is pretty cold, it is full flavoured and classy. Beautifully balanced and long. (JH)

The 2009 Chardonnay was made with Mendoza clone fruit crushed with the stems on and barrel fermented naturally in French oak, 25% new. It offers lovely citrus and toast aromas with notes of lemon tart, warm grapefruit and fresh peaches plus whiffs of chalk and cedar. The medium bodied palate lends a nice bit of texture with layered stone fruit and citrus flavors lifted by crisp acidity, finishing long and savory. Drink it from 2012 to 2017. The Donaldson family initially planted vines at this Waipara estate in 1986, at first with a whole fruit salad of vines including a mix of Bordeaux varietals. With the benefit of trial and error, now the focus at Pegasus Bay is on Riesling and Pinot Noir. Husband and wife team, Lynnette Hudson and Matt Donaldson, are the dynamic duo heading-up winemaking these days and, as the notes of the verticals of back vintages I tasted with them will attest, the wines from this commendable estate not only have staying power, they just get better and better. Importer: Empson USA, Alexandria, VA.