2007 Gewurztraminer Selection de Grains Nobles

The 2007 Gewurztraminer Selection de Grains Nobles Hors Choix represents a cuvee designation that the Trimbachs also utilized in 1989 and 2000 for wine of near Esszencia-like richness. Essence of rose petal along with mirabelle preserves, mint candy, and brown spices on the nose are joined on a thickly-rich palate by honey, chocolate, and white raisin. Yet for all of its richness and gaudy, candied set of flavors, this preserves a juicy sense of leavening and refreshment in a finish of extraordinary persistence, its sweetness not in the least cloying. This should be a 50 year wine. ”The yeasts were very efficient in 2007,” notes Jean Trimbach, pointing to a collection of wines several of which are below one gram in residual sugar. The grapes and people did good work, too: I cannot recall a collection at this address that was more consistently fine. Only three special bottlings were essayed by Trimbach in 2006, all Riesling, of which the Frederic Emile and Clos Ste. Hune are among the high points of this vintage in Alsace. Importer: Esprit Du Vin French Wine Merchants & Select European Estates, 48 Harbor Park Drive, Port Washington, NY 11050; www.edvwines.com