2005 Riesling Oberhauser Smaragd Trocken

The 2005 Riesling Smaragd Oberhauser displays site typical aromas and flavors of apricot, along with grapefruit, wafting florality, invigorating hints of fruit and citrus zest bitterness and pungency, and a multi-dimensional expression of minerality. Each year it is remarkable to witness the sort of Riesling that can grow here on a practically level riverside site. This is a ravishing example of the way in which the best wines of 2005 can wear their extract on their sleeves, yet at the same time offer extroverted and thirst-quenching fresh fruit character. Also recommended: 2004 Riesling Federspiel Von den Terrassen ($29.00; 86). Importer: Weygandt-Metzler Importing, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800