2007 Gewurztraminer Goldert SGN

Humbrecht’s 2007 Gewurztraminer Goldert Selection de Grains Nobles – vinified in a once-used demi-muid, and representing the first ever S.G.N. from these vines – had not been bottled when I last tasted it, as he was waiting for it to clarify. Candied lemon rind, licorice, faded gardenia, rose, musk, peppermint, and coconut are among the exotic aromas that then transfer themselves to a creamy, practically weightlessly buoyant palate loaded with honey, marzipan, and quince paste. Despite this elixir’s confitured and confectionary cast, a marine, saline streak and a seam of fresh citrus enliven and invigorate in a finish of kaleidoscopic dynamics. As with the Hengst, there’s no track record here – not, at least, at this estate – but one could reasonably conclude from other selections made in this site and its longevity in far less-concentrated form that we have here a half-century wine. At the same time – and granted that my tasting note does not reflect bottling – this is showing much more intricacy and personality at this early state than are its two immediate S.G.N. siblings. ”After the experience of 2003,” remarks Olivier Humbrecht with an eye to his 2007s, “I’m never going to complain about having and extra gram or two of acidity.” In fact, Humbrecht considers 2007 ideal in nearly every respect, having permitted the grower the luxury of picking under optimum conditions for each grape variety and style. The fruit was completely healthy, insists Humbrecht, “you could walk through the vineyards for half an hour and fine one spoiled berry,” … except, of course, where the rot was noble! This year’s generally dry-tasting, relatively low-alcohol, high acid, high-extract Rieslings are not always the most youthfully approachable or winsome in style, but the best are profound; whereas Pinot Gris and Gewurztraminer ran to extremities of potential alcohol, even though the harvest was finished before mid-October. Far fewer wines went through malo-lactic transformation here from 2007 than usual – the pHs were often so low they proved inhospitable to the necessary bacteria. As for 2006, it’s clear that this is a year to test the meddle of any grower, and it is therefore not surprising that Zind-Humbrecht was among the estates to demonstrate that excellence and even excitement were not ruled out by the weather. Furthermore, he arrived at an average 2006 yield virtually identical to that of 2005. “Of course,” asserts Humbrecht, “quality in 2006 depended on how you handle your vineyards and your vines the whole year through. It was a vintage where, if you made a mistake in the vineyards, you got slapped pretty hard at harvest time, unlike 2007 where if you made a mistake, nature was forgiving.” The completion of fermentations in 2007 was spread over even more months than usual, often with late bottling; frequently with no racking; and my notes are based both on tastings from bottle early this year (sometimes referencing the wine’s performance from cask) and in a few instances solely on tastings from cask. Two 2007 Pinot Gris “Trie Speciale” – from Clos Windsbuhl and Clos Jebsal – were not even wine yet last I visited, and will in any case not be released for at least another year. Importer: The Sorting Table, Napa, CA; tel. (415) 491-4724