2008 Muntada

The Gauby 2008 Cotes du Roussillon Villages Muntada combines almost implosive tiny-berried concentration of cassis and other black fruits with vibratory intensity, so that for all of its palpable impression of sheer density; of tannic suffusion; and of mineral layering that you would think took eons of geological sedimentation not just 120 days on a vine to accomplish, this superb wine projects polish, elegance, and lift. Like the corresponding Vieilles Vignes bottling but to an even greater extent, it reveals peat, iron filings, crushed stone, iodine, and chalk as if they were profound strata, while the tart edge of dark berries; soy-like saline savor; and bittersweet pungency of scrubby herbs further contribute to invigoration in a finish that seems to be coursing with electrical current. This ought to merit two decades of inspiring contemplation and eager consumption. Gerard and Lionel Gauby - for much more about whose vineyards, labors, and stylistic evolution see my account in issue 183 - have elected after much consideration to bottle some single-vineyard wines not only for the pleasure of it but as a means of learning more by following their solo performances about the potential of some clearly outstanding parcels and sites that they have acquired over the past 6-8 years but which do not - at least for now - have an established place in either the red Vieilles Vignes or Muntada cuvees, and have instead until now been blended into the La Calcinaire rouge (or, in the case of Grenache Gris, the white Vieilles Vignes). The upshot for yours truly as critic is even more excitement when tasting a Gauby collection than before, though it will surely be difficult to secure bottles from any of the aforementioned mini-cuvees in order to follow them in one's own cellar. (Incidentally, Lionel Gauby is also experimenting with a couple of Jura-inspired barrels of white largely left to their own evolutionary devices. Nobody can accuse the Gaubys of resting on their laurels - though I suppose some fans might prefer if they did!) The 2008 collection here impressively reflects the tiny berries that Gerard Gauby says characterized that vintage. "The Carignan, especially," adds Lionel Gauby, "was magnificent." And while the 2009 reds here are certainly impressive, 2010 will be a class above them, the wines already rife with intrigue. (The aforementioned single-site lots - whose number increased in 2010 - are of course by definition unblended, so there is no question that what I tasted from cask was definitive; but I felt it was too early to publish notes on these, especially when the familiar classic cuvees were as yet only represented by unblended lots.) Importer: Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800