2011 The Chocolate Block

The 2011 Chocolate Block is a blend of 69% Syrah, and the rest Grenache, Cabernet Sauvignon and Viognier that sees a judicious 11% new oak. It has a compact bouquet of blackberry and licorice with hints of mocha just in the background. The palate is medium-bodied with a fresh, minty opening. The tannins feel lithe in the mouth and the acidity is well-judged. Though the finish is uncomplicated, it is nicely focused with plenty of fresh blackberry and raspberry notes to satisfy the masses that continue to enjoy this wine. Drink now-2015. Boekenhoutskloof has been one of Franschhoek’s, indeed one of South Africa’s leading wineries for a number of years under the inspired leadership of Mark Kent. Their entry-level ranges, Porcupine Ridge, Chocolate Block and Wolftrap, serve as many consumers’ introduction to South African wines and they represent great value, while their top wines have won plaudits both at home and abroad. However, this was the first time where I felt that the wines had been pushed a little too hard, as if they were aching to impress and tripped over their shoelaces in the process. In recent vintages I have felt that although there is a long period of oak maturation, the wines have just about retained varietal typicity and personality, but here there were one or two examples where it just felt excessive, tipped over the edge and becoming detrimental to the wine. Essentially, I felt that the maximum rather than the optimal amount of oak was being utilized. As other producers adopt considered approaches to their oak regime, I would not want to see such an important winery to be overtaken. Take the first, for example. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 949-6262

(69% shiraz, 14% grenache, 11% cabernet sauvignon, 5% cinsault and 1% viognier): Good full medium red. Highly aromatic nose melds blackberry, licorice, menthol and spicecake. Sweet and supple but juicy and primary too, with harmonious acidity framing and intensifying the dark fruit and spice flavors. A serious, youthfully aggressive midweight with substantial building, tongue-dusting tannins and a late note of balsamic nutty oak. Already quite perfumed but in need of at least another year or two in the cellar to express itself.

69% Syrah, 14% Grenache Noir, 11% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Cinsault and 1% Viognier. Syrah and Viognier hail from Malmesbury (Swartland) from dryland farmed vineyards to ensure deep-rooted vines, while the Grenache Noir is sourced from Piekenierskloof (Citrusdal) with its very sandy soils and perfect terroir for ripening this grape varietal. The Cabernet Sauvignon is sourced from Franschhoek and the Cinsault is from old bush vines on decomposed granite soils in Wellington. All grapes were hand-harvested and there was pre and post-fermentation maceration with the exact regime depending on the batch and cultivar. All ferments used natural yeasts with the exception of the Cabernet which was inoculated with a commercial strain. Basket pressed and matured in 600l 2nd and third fill French oak barrels for 18 months. Winemaker Marc Kent. TA 5.5 g/l, pH 3.7, RS 2.98 g/l. South Africans (and many others) will kill for this. Very sweet and opulent. A great, flattering palate massage. (JR)