1988 Cuvee William Deutz

Made from a high proportion of grapes from Aÿ (20%) and a large proportion of Chardonnay from Avize (20%) and Mesnil-sur-Orger (15%), with the remaining quantity coming from Montagne de Reims (30%) and Pinot Meunier from Pierry and the Marne Valley (15%). Disgorged 2003, TA 5.15 g/l (expressed as sulphuric), pH c 3. Lots of bubbles at pouring. Mid gold. Fine aroma, a little smoky, toasty, just a very very slight note of undergrowth, but also a delicacy and floral character. Rich and toasty on the palate, like well-toasted toast but not charred. Beautifully dry and elegant even with all the mature, toasted flavour. Terrific length and wonderfully fine and surprisingly persistent  mousse. (JH)