1998 Cote Rotie Cote Blonde

Almost Côte Brune-like with its darker berry and cassis fruits as well as notes of iron, gamey meats, and earth, the 1998 Côte Rôtie Côte Blonde shows ample Côte Blonde sexiness on the palate, and it’s full-bodied, incredibly concentrated, and layered, with ripe tannins and a big finish. It’s certainly mature yet is going to hold nicely through at least 2025.

A masculine, ripe expression of Côte Rôtie, the 1998 Côte Rôtie Côte Blonde offers up tons of blackberry and cassis fruit to go with notions of smoked meats, iron and earth. Hitting the palate with blockbuster levels of concentration and a voluptuous, sexy texture, it still has a surprising amount of tannin that come through on the finish. Nevertheless, this is mature and drinking nicely. I would opt for drinking bottles over the coming decade or so.

Mid crimson. Fully mature nose that is extremely alluring with licorice and violets. Very Côte Rôtie! Almost animal. You could drink this already but it convinces that it has a long future ahead too. Slightly dry tannins on the finish but really vibrant fruit. There’s an exciting tension to this wine. Neat, clean finish. Lively, some acidity, but fresh and confident, though the tannins are just a little dusty. This wine seemed even better than when tasted in may 04. (JR)