2002 Mount Edelstone Shiraz

100% 90-year-old single-vineyard Shiraz. Matured in 60% French and 40% American (62% new, 38% seasoned) hogsheads for 18 months prior to blending and bottling. Screwcap. The best vintage of Stephen Henschke's life, he says.  Bewitching nose, in prime condition with bramble jelly fruit, mixed spices, leather, pepper – the full shebang of Shiraz, delivered with panache yet sensitivity and balance. Stunningly good, easily among Australia's best. (RH)

The 2002 Mount Edelstone Shiraz is spectacular. Its dense, opaque ruby/purple color is followed by a big, smoky perfume of roasted meats, creme de cassis, blackberries, licorice, and barbecue spices as well as a fabulously long finish that lasts nearly a minute. This flamboyant, exotic, full-bodied, rich, unctuous 100% Shiraz was aged in 80% new American and French oak for 18 months. Drink it over the next 12-15 years. This cuvee often possesses impressive aging potential as evidenced by the 1990 (rated 94) and 1979 (rated 92), both drunk in July, 2005. Importer: Negociants, USA, Napa CA; tel. (707) 259-0993

Deep, dark ruby. Explosive, ripe aromas of blackberry, creme de cassis, dark cherry, plum, pipe tobacco, bacon and exotic spice cake. The 90-year old vines make a statement on the palate, which is concentrated but lively and not thick, and loaded with fresh, sharply delineated flavors of red and black berries, pomegranate, licorice and smoked meat. Finishes fresh and vibrant, with silky, harmonious tannins. This is the 50th anniversary bottling of this wine.