2008 Schlossbockelheimer Kupfergrube Spatlese

Donnhoff's 2008 Schlossbockelheimer Kupfergrube Riesling Spatlese is explosively bright, saturating and invigorating the palate with pineapple, lemon, and distilled pit and black fruits. Tart notes of berry skin and pungent citrus zest tickle the tonsils, while the refreshing diversity of fruits and berries remains transparent to saline, smoke, nut oil, and meat stock nuances. Reflecting its name, this is certainly a brilliant flash in a coppery pan. But you can also expect it to gain and to remain exciting over at least the next two decades. Fruit from the Felsenturmchen portion of Felsenberg can achieve this sort of balance, too, Donnhoff acknowledges, but at least for this year, he remarks, it was enough to let Kupfergrube do it. It was back to the roots this year, announced a beaming Helmut Donnhoff when I arrived to taste his 2008s. He harvested in the last week of October and first half of November during which time he characterized the weather as cool and stable. I can guarantee you, he added, that we didn't for a single day have muddy boots. Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300