2007 Schlossbockelheimer Kupfergrube Spatlese

Scents of red and black currant, musk melon, orange, pear, and herbal essences in the nose of Donnhoff's 2007 Schlossbockelheimer Kupfergrube Riesling Spatlese coalesce on the palate into an intense and almost electric core. A hint of caramel points to botrytis as does the spiciness that chimes in on a kaleidoscopic, high-definition finish. it's easy to see why Donnhoff relegates this site to the group whose talents lie in residually sweet rather than dry Riesling. And it's hard to imagine that with its wealth of acidity and extract and sense of sheer energy this will not remain exciting for a quarter century. I could have picked out an Auslese, but I didn-t, remarks Donnhoff by way of at least in part explaining the amazing quality and sheer concentration on display here. While Donnhoff returned to his usual humility in characterizing the latest vintage - following an atypically unabashed outbreak of enthusiasm in describing his indeed amazing collection of 2006s - it is clear that the 2007s delight him in a similar way, as outstanding representations of their respective sites at Spatlese ripeness. (Note, incidentally, that the Pradikat has been removed from any dry wines here, in keeping with a new convention of the Nahe branch of the VDP growers- association.) -Within that range of ripeness,- he submits, -one best-recognizes the site. Here you have nothing exaggerated, but instead a normal harvest, meaning a documentation of the vineyards, each a different face on the landscape. They all went to the same school and had the same opportunities- he adds, gesturing to the long row of Spatlesen on the tasting table, and alluding to his own role as well as the vintage-s. -It was a bit intimidating this year at harvest,- he added, -because when the grapes are perfect, you can only make mistakes.- I had the rare fortune to taste this collection twice, and like so many 2007s (a comment that even more growers made about their 2008s) the wines were much more impressive in September than in Spring. A 2007 Hermannshohle Trockenbeerenauslese, by the way, is still trying to become wine after two years. Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

More smoky and riper apricot fruit. Then crystalline lemon on the palate. Concentrated and very promising. Opens up to more minerality in the glass. (JH)