2009 Ermitage Blanc Le Reverdy

The outrageously rich 2009 Ermitage Le Reverdy blanc (a 70-case blend of 80% Marsanne and 20% Roussanne) possesses honeyed marmalade notes intermixed with hints of candle wax, quince, white currants and ginger. Unfortunately, it will be difficult to latch on to a bottle of this delicious white given the tiny production. If the turn around in quality of the Paul Jaboulet-Aine wines is the biggest good news story of qualitative improvement in the northern Rhone, what Michel Chapoutier has accomplished with Ferraton is a close second. This is definitely a name to be taken seriously, as Chapoutier has expanded the portfolio and continues to upgrade the quality across the board. Ferraton’s 2009s and 2010s are the finest wines made to date. There appears to be three levels of quality now being produced, beginning with the generic bottlings, to the single vineyard (or lieu-dit) offerings, followed by the top of the line, more expensive, limited production efforts called selections parcellaires. Importer: A French Paradox, Peoria, IL; tel. (309) 682-8994

Bright yellow-gold. Smoke-accented aromas of pear skin, yellow plum and white flowers, with subtle vanilla and spice notes in the background. Sappy and palate-coating, with dense orchard and pit fruit flavors and an exotic hint of mango. A dusty mineral quality adds energy to a nervy, tightly focused finish, which is impressively clingy.