2005 Abandonado

The 2005 ABANDONADO is principally a blend of Tinta Amarela, Touriga Franca and Touriga Nacional from this winery’s old, nearly abandoned vineyard (hence the poetic name, Abandonado). It spent 15 months in a blend of Portuguese and French oak. The 2004 vintage of this small production wine was sensational and immediately became of the Douro’s top wines. The 2005 is a close competitor and one of the stars of the vintage. If it lacks the 2004’s density and intensity, it does some things better. Take the nose, for instance--the first thing you notice—the wonderful, powerful bouquet. Get within half a foot of this and you’ll say, “Oh, my.” It joins the 2005 Maria Teresa from Crasto as wines with amazing aromatics in this vintage. The relatively modest mid-palate weight is typical of the 2005 vintage. Yet, it is nicely structured and balanced, with well integrated tannins that persist to the next day but do not overwhelm the wine. Its overt fruit flavors are a pleasure, too. It is simply, completely delicious, in fact, cherries, plums, strawberries and vanilla intermingling, with a hint of kirsch on the bouquet. It has an intensity of flavor that I think is better than on the ’04. I suspect this might even spark some “international” criticisms because it is so sexy, and yes, a little flamboyant. Have at it. But overall, this is also lovely, precise and graceful. And, don’t forget…simply delicious. It drank well on Day 2 as well. Drink now-2018. Importers: Tri-Vin Imports, Mt. Vernon, NY; tel. (914) 664-3155, for all Vale da Raposa wines and the Estacao only; Vinum Importing, Redmond, WA.; tel. (206) 621-8843; Aidil Wines & Liquors, a division of Olde World Imports, Inc., Rahway, NJ; tel. (973) 642-0044, for Caldas Reserva and Abandonado only.