2012 Condrieu La Doriane

(all new oak here): Bright yellow. Assertive aromas of nectarine, violet and smoky minerals, with a gingery nuance adding lift. Broad and silky on the palate, offering densely packed orchard and pit fruit flavors that become spicier with air. The mineral note comes back strong on the finish, which lingers with excellent tenacity and building smokiness.

Bottled in July from their holdings which now total 4 ha. All vinified in new oak, as usual but with the new acquisition on granite terroir the balance has changed. It's less opulent and explosive and has a bit more rigidity. Already lovely and round with great texture and no trace of oak. This would make a great bottle for Christmas. It might last until 2015 but I'd make haste. (JR)

Even better and a monumental effort, the 2012 Condrieu La Doriane shows the freshness and purity of the vintage, with thrilling minerality that gives lift to stone fruits, citrus, marmalade and assorted floral nuances. Medium to full-bodied, laser-focused and ultra-precise, yet still fantastically textured and long, this is blockbuster stuff that flirts with perfection and should not be missed. Wine Advocate #210 Dec 2013