2007 Brauneberger Juffer Sonnenuhr Trockenbeerenauslese

The Haags’ 2007 Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Trockenbeerenauslese – destined to be sold off of their regular price list, not at auction – had not yet been bottled and was under the influence of recent sulfuring when I tasted it last September. Even so, this wine was explosively concentrated, loaded with peach preserves, brown spices, nougat, marzipan, and white raisin. Seldom, in fact, can I recall a Riesling remotely this much like nut confection. The lift and near weightlessness of which the best wines of the vintage are capable is dramatically displayed here. Yet the finish offers a greater sense of grip – along with the stimulation of orange and pink grapefruit zest, tactile cinnamon spice, and subtly chewy peach skin – than the wine’s creamy, levitating palate performance or nut paste character would have led me to anticipate. Intriguing and in its way invigorating as this elixir might be, ultimately the wonder of it will simply bring you to reverie. Needless to say this is one for the ages. Oliver and Wilhelm Haag have done it again, scoring consistent and sensational success throughout their range. And if 2007 cannot – like 2006 – be compared with any iconic vintage of yore (in 2006’s case, 1953) so much the more exciting. Importer: Rudi Wiest, Cellars International, Carlsbad, CA; tel. 800 596 9463.