2007 Mas de Daumas Gassac Blanc

The 2007 Mas de Daumas Gassac white is mouth-wateringly redolent of honeydew melon, acacia, and basswood, and correspondingly lush and juicy on the palate. A hint of green apple betrays the wine’s contingent of malic acid, but at the same time lends a bit of welcome invigoration and cut in the finish. This by no means lacks stuffing, and the Guiberts proudly serve subtly-oxidized older examples, such as a now-excellent 2000. But I suspect most tasters will prefer to enjoy this wine and its siblings over their first 3-4 years of life. When Languedoc pioneer Aime Guibert planted his first vines in 1972 and crushed his first Mas Daumas Gassac red in 1978, he was convinced that, improbable though it must have seemed to virtually any other observer at the time, his property and wine would gain worldwide renown. And it did. But a lot of even less predictable changes including grands vins have come to the Languedoc in the last thirty years which Guibert never imagined. Today, the property his children help him to farm has spawned a few experimental cuvees and a parallel line of inexpensive wines from purchased grapes (under the umbrella “Moulin de Gassac,” with several labels), but the flagships remain a Cabernet-based red and (since 1986) a white consisting of Chardonnay, Petit Manseng, Chenin Blanc, and (up to 20%) grapes from a multi-national collection of varieties more diverse than you would find in many a commercial vine nursery. As such, it cannot be said that any other Languedoc growers of note have followed Guibert’s lead in blend or style. These wines appear destined to remain anomalies, while the reputation of the Terraces du Larzac area and the Languedoc as a whole has risen to prominence thanks to a focus on Mediterranean varieties and a style far removed from the “classic Medoc vinification” that Guibert still advertises and that his early mentor the famed Emile Peynaud had in mind. Ironically, the tag line used in Guibert’s promo materials is “Wine as it used to be” (Un vin comme autrefois). Various importers, including Beaune Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 559 1040, The Country Vintner Ashland, VA; tel. (804) 752-3670, and Southern Wine and Spirits d.b.a. Lauber Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 268–8033