2005 Cote Rotie Les Roziers

The fuller-bodied 2005 Cote Rotie Cote Rozier is not as charming or fruit-forward as its younger sibling. It is broodingly dense with a formidable opaque color, high tannins, impressive concentration, and a full, well-balanced finish. As the wine sits in the glass, hints of pepper and tapenade emerge. These two brothers have come of age over the last decade. In the past, much of the crop was sold to negociants, but now all of it is estate bottled. The Bonnefonds farm just under 14 acres in Cote Rotie and 2.5 in Condrieu. Production is approximately 12,000-15,000 bottles of the Cote Rozier, 3,000-4,000 bottles of Les Rochains, and 2,000 cases of the regular cuvee. Everything is destemmed, and the wines are made with both pump-overs and punch-downs. The single vineyard wines see as much as 85-90% new French oak, and the classic Cote Roties see 25-30% new wood. There is no filtration. Importer: A Christopher Cannan Selection, various American importers including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300 and Diamond Wine Merchants, Oakland, CA; tel. (510) 567-9897

Opaque purple (this has already stained the bottle). Huge, wonderfully perfumed bouquet of raspberry, cherry, violet, rose and smoky minerals. Palate-staining dark berry liqueur flavors are surprisingly lively and precise, even elegant, with firm tannins adding structure. Finishes deep, sweet and with outstanding persistence. There's nothing overdone or overly weighty about this remarkably fresh Cotie-Rotie.

CS Sweet, chocolatey black fruit. Exotic spice and fragrant depths. Dense, firm, concentrated, ripe and dry. Smooth wall of tannins dissipates on the palate like velvet stage curtains rising. Very fine. (JH)