2003 Cote Rotie Les Roziers

Deep ruby. Powerful but focused aromas of blackcurrant, tobacco, gunpowder and spicy black pepper. Chewy with extract and intensely flavored, with fresh berry fruit flavors expanding with aeration. This stays fresh and bright through the long, sweet finish.

(from 35-year-old vines) Good medium ruby. Complex nose melds peppery black fruits, violet, smoked meat, minerals and bitter chocolate; not especially dominated by the vintage character. Dense and impressively rich, with pure flavors of blackberry, blueberry, pepper and bitter chocolate. Finishes with strong but ripe tannins and late suggestions of gunflint and woodsmoke. Only a slight dried-fruit character gives away the vintage. Unlike the 2001 bottling, this did not include any viognier.

From the Cote Brune, the 2003 Cote Rotie Cote Rozier boasts an inky/purple color along with an extraordinary perfume of graphite, bacon fat, melted licorice, creme de cassis, raspberries, and tapenade. Although extremely full-bodied, even huge, with massive concentration, and an unusually intense style, it reveals surprising freshness and definition. Deep, full-bodied, and moderately tannic, this 100% Syrah requires 4-5 years of bottle age, and should drink well for 20-25 years. Feb 2006, www.robertparker.com