2007 Riesling Singerriedel Smaragd

From the top of one’s nose to the tail of its finish, the Hirtzberger 2007 Riesling Smaragd Singerriedel offers unusual notes of resin and pine needles, along with budleia and the more usual ripe apricot. Just as in approaching this year’s Honivogel, after the performance of the Hochrain I was anticipating perhaps too much ripeness and rot in Singerriedel, but there is only a subtle and very noble overlay of honey. Nut paste, apricot and white peach with their pits, honey, and malt inform this opulent, creamy, yet not in the least heavy Riesling, and they carry into a clear, pure, buoyant, juicy, still subtly honeyed finish. This eloquent and uncannily-balanced wine should stand up to 8-10 years in the cellar. Most of Hirtzberger’s 2007 vintage Gruner Veltliner reflect their late dates of harvest and the presence of botrytis (a certain amount of which he always welcomes) in rich, low tones. Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700