2005 Nicolas Catena Zapata

(this represents a selection of the best fruit from the Catena Zapata vineyards) Full ruby. Superripe aromas of black cherry, dark chocolate and licorice, enlivened by minerals, violet, pepper and herbs. Then penetrating, sharply delineated and impressively concentrated, with a serious backbone supporting its very fresh currant and mineral flavors. This strikes me as less exotic and porty than the 2004 version, not to mention less exotic than the 2005 Nicasia Vineyard bottling. Still a tad tight in the middle, but the vibrant, echoing finish suggests that this wine will have even more to say in five or six years.

The flagship wines begin with the purple/black-colored 2005 Nicolas Catena Zapata, a blend of 78% Cabernet Sauvignon and 22% Malbec. The fruit was sourced from four of the estate’s finest high-elevation vineyards, and aged for 24 months in 100% new French oak. The brooding bouquet delivers pain grille, mineral, violet, scorched earth, pepper, espresso, black cherry, and black raspberry aromas leading to a dense, opulent wine with gobs of savory fruit, ripe tannins, terrific concentration, and a 60-second finish. Allow it 6-8 years in the cellar to reveal its full potential and enjoy it from 2015 to 2030. The Catena Zapata portfolio is stunning from entry-level to top-of-the-line. As an aside, during my visit to Catena-Zapata in April, 2008, I tasted many barrel samples of 2006s and 2007s. The components, particularly of the 2006s are astounding; the best is yet to come. Importer: Billington Imports, Springfield, VA; tel. (703) 455-4700; fax (703) 455-0450; www.billingtonwines.com

78% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Malbec Pretty complex and intriguing. Polished and whole This actually tastes more complete and flattering than the Malbec Argentino 2005. Well done! (JR)