2007 Riesling Kellerberg Smaragd

The Pichler 2007 Riesling Smaragd Kellerberg makes a statement so mineral it is the bottling that ought to be named capital “M”. Salt, white pepper, iodine, and crushed stone mingle with lime and white peach on a palate display of fine-grained density and broth-like, reduced concentration, yet compared with the Steinertal one of restraint. A vibrant, almost electric thread of acidity runs through this, in part a legacy of desiccated fruit at the end of November (which in turn meant very low yield), and as with the Loibenberg, this virtually lights up in the finish, with almost visceral penetration and a kaleidoscopic display of white pepper, salt, stone, citrus, and pit fruits. (It reached 14% alcohol, but I would have guessed 13%.) Lucas Pichler was one of the numerous growers to describe the relatively low alcohol and efficacious acidity of his 2007s as “classic,” even though at this address in particular, one can hardly consider that statistically correct. The finished wines remind me a bit of the superb Pichler 1999s which were lushly, at times even extravagantly fruity (not to mention intensely mineral) while remaining refreshing and moderate in alcohol. F.X. Pichler compares the best of this year’s Rieslings with his 1997s, and certainly in terms of sheer quality it is hard to argue with that assessment. The Pichlers have never favored hedging or leaf pulling, and think that the consequence this year was to protect the embryonic bunches from the searing heat and sun of July and to enhance ripening in the long autumn. Of course, the flip side of this could be the trapping of water and promotion of botyrtis. And Lucas Pichler relates that to achieve excellent Federspiel, it was necessary to laboriously cut out botrytized and otherwise imperfect portions from a substantial share of the clusters. For Pichlers (in contrast with Alzingers) – 2007 was more difficult in terms of botrytis and selection – than 2006, especially with Gruner Veltliner. In both Federspiel and Smaragd categories, they held off on picking Riesling, with (to say the least!) demonstrable success. Importer: Weygandt-Metzler Importing, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800