2003 Chryseia

The 2003 Chryseia was one of my favorites from my Portuguese journeys in the Summer of 2006. This sexy, debonair wine is utterly delicious. The ripe, almost sappy fruit projects persistent flavors, a touch of licorice and it feels full in your mouth, even though the mid-palate is neither thick nor heavy, but in fact rather elegant. The texture is sensuous and the tannins are refined, but present, providing evidence that this wine can hold and develop. I might want more intensity, but this does have some subtle intensity. It is by no means flabby or lifeless, and as it sits and airs out, it does seem brighter. As it is, it presents a beautifully balanced picture, and the oak moderates considerably with substantial aeration. Keep that in mind, because it would be easy to dismiss this for oak treatment on too quick a taste. It is completely primary at the moment, which makes this a good time to taste it, but I wouldn’t be surprised if it shuts down. If there is a quibble, the wine seems to promise little complexity. I did hold it until the next day, and while it wasn’t particularly complex, I was surprised by how much the sweet fruit opened up, the oak integrated, and the wine became even tastier, while retaining its freshness. I enjoyed every sip of this. It just plain tastes great. Don’t underestimate it, which is easy to do in a quick taste. If you want to experience the style in a general sense, for less money, you might in fact consider Symington’s Altano Reserva. It lacks the sophistication and structure of this wine, but it has similarities in its approach and style. The Chryseia is primarily Touriga Nacional and Touriga Franca, with Tinta Roriz and Tinta Cao blended in, raised in new French oak. Fruit is sourced from various Quintas of note, including Perdiz and Bomfim. Proportions of each varietal used are expected to vary from year-to-year and are usually unstated as a result. There were approximately 3,205 cases produced. Drink 2007-2015. This is one of the famous and increasingly successful partnerships in Portugal with foreign wine interests. Here, the Symingtons, owners of Dow’s and Graham’s ports, among others, pair up with Bruno Prats of Cos d’Estournel fame. Chryseia is a relatively new project, the first experimental lots having been made only in 1999. “Chryseia” is the Greek translation of “Douro,” literally meaning “of gold.” In many respects, you can call this lineup from Prats & Symington one of the more modern faces of the Douro. No one will call these wines “rustic.” Importer: Premium Port Wines, San Francisco, CA; tel: (415) 554-9920.

Bright-rimmed ruby. Dense, brooding bouquet of ripe plum, cherry preserves, bitter chocolate, black tea and espresso, with a suggestion of vanillin oak spice. Broad and sappy, with sweet berry and cherry flavors accented by spicy oak, iron and mocha. For all its richness and concentration, this is nicely balanced, even elegant, with good lift to the ripe dark fruit flavors. Finishes with strong but harmonious tannins.

CS. Very healthy, floral perfume. Great smoothness and elegance. Tannins very, very well hidden. Very, very gently brought up. No rough edges at all. Extremely suave! This would be very difficult to identify if tasted blind – Bordeaux or Portugal? (The 2002 was bottled as a second wine, Post Scriptum. (JR)