1995 Montus Cuvee Prestige

In the mid-seventies, I paid a visit to the rustic appellation of Madiran, several hours south of Bordeaux. I met proprietor Alain Brumont, but had no way of knowing at the time that he would emerge as the appellation's most energetic and quality-driven producer. Brumont has always produced very good wine for near-term drinking, but the 1995 Montus Cuvee Prestige, a 100% Tannat (the local grape), aged in 100% new oak, is a wine for drinking around 2010 or later. In fact, most readers would be advised to buy this wine for a child born in 1995, as opposed to purchasing it for personal consumption. As the grape's name implies, it is a tannic wine, although this is not a wine that is harsh and astringent without the balancing fruit. The color is an opaque black. The wine possesses a magnificent, sweet, pure nose of cassis, black plums, and subtle new oak notes. Extraordinarily deep and full-bodied, with layers of concentrated, jammy fruit, a formidable tannin level, and a monster finish, this is unquestionably one of the great 1995s (and I am including all my top picks from Bordeaux). Do not be surprised if it outlives anything produced by Montus's more renowned siblings to the north. The Cuvee Prestige will demand 15-20 years of cellaring. These are unreal wines that are purely made, remarkably rich, and so complete and promising that they cannot be ignored. Importer: a Jeffrey Davies Signature Selection, West Nyack, NY; tel. (845) 353-8767