2004 Diana Madeline Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot

Cork stoppered. First biodynamic vintage, and quite a warm vintage. Aged for 18 months in French oak barriques (54% new). This apparently has always been a crowd-pleaser. Mineral dominant on the nose but big and bold on the palate. A bit beefy! 14% so the highest alcohol they’d go. (JR)

Wilyabrup vineyard. 84% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc. Houghton selection clone. The 2004 Diana Madeline was produced using biodynamic techniques. Good rainfall in the months up to November 2003 produced perfect conditions for the vines in the early part of the growing season. The main growing season was cool and dry, followed by warm but not extreme temperatures, which meant red grapes that attained ideal physiological ripeness. Aged in barriques for 18 months of which 54% were new. Very luscious and rather bordelais on the nose with layers of glamorously alive fruit. Complex bouquet really does draw you into the glass. Drier (ie not sweet) than some of its peers. Very sophisticated and clearly made for the long haul. Not a charmer but masses of integrity. (JR)

Generally speaking, Merlot has failed to excite as a single variety but has shown its value in blending. Cullen’s Cabernet vines were planted in 1971, the Merlot in 1976. The vineyard is run biodynamically by winemaker Vanya Cullen. Sweet and more floral and spiced on the nose than the John Riddoch – but it is also a lot younger. Touch of violets, a little leafy with time in the glass, and bags of lovely perfume. Very dry, dry fine tannins. Some vanilla on the nose and palate though the oak is all French (70% new). There’s a lightness and elegance on the palate but also a fine grainy texture giving depth and character. Subtle and fine and aromatically complex across the mid palate and into the long finish. (JH)