2005 Eitelsbacher Karthauserhofberg Beerenauslese 32

A 2005 Eitelsbacher Karthauserhofberg Riesling Beerenauslese #32 smells of raspberry preserves, honey, and lemon meringue. On the palate, it offers a dense yet bright and satisfyingly juicy concentration of red berry, citrus, and honey, finishing with a laser-like purity and penetration. While this might not seem so obviously (or riotously!) complex as a few of the other botrytis wines tasted, it will not want for further complexity if one cellars it for two to four decades, and none of this year’s Karthauserhof Rieslings are better candidates for such treatment than this. Picking took place here throughout October and into early November, with some genuine Kabinett-typical must weights (a rarity for 2005) in the initial stages and an astonishing, virtually unprecedented array of nobly sweet wines selected on and off throughout the harvest. Also recommended: 2005 Eitelsbacher Karthauserhofberg Riesling trocken (unknown; 86), 2005 Eitelsbacher Karthauserhofberg Riesling Kabinett trocken (unknown; 85). Importer: Rudi Wiest, Cellars International, Carlsbad, CA; tel. (800) 596-9463