2005 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Auslese GK

The 2005 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese Gold Capsule, reports Schug, is really the first wine picked here this year entirely for botrytis. The nose is vividly of apricot preserve and apple jelly backed by high-toned citrus oil and ethereal florality. In the mouth, the apricot jam component of this wine rushes to the fore, accompanied by spicy and honeyed botrytis elements. The texture is almost custardy dense and creamy, yet cut through with bright citricity. Apricot and apple compote over custard and drizzled with honey forms the principal finishing theme here, with subtle saltiness and terrific lift and elegance. This glorious but very sweet-tasting success should be capable of fascinating evolution for a quarter century or more. Importer: Loosen Brothers, Portland, OR; tel. (510) 864-7255