2005 Incognito

The 2005 Incógnito, Cortes de Cima's infamous Syrah, is a little beefy on the nose, bright and easy. The structure here is better than the fruit, the mid-palate having thinned notably. It starts well and seems to hint that you're in for something special—then it tails off. From the first taste, this was always a somewhat understated Incógnito. The fresh feel is still very nice, though. If this doesn't quite match its prestigious price or level, it is still a pretty nice drink. It does need to be drunk, no matter how long it theoretically lasts. It isn't getting any better.