2007 Cornas Renaissance

Deep ruby. Red and dark berry aromas complicated by strong spice and smoke qualities and nuances of anise and black tea. Slow to unfold, offering sweet cassis and cherry flavors with some aeration. The smoky note returns on the finish, which delivers a big punch of sweet dark fruit and lingers with excellent smoky intensity. Decant this for at least an hour if you plan on opening one any time soon.

The 2007 Cornas Renaissance is a delicious, up-front, deep purple-colored effort displaying full body, new saddle leather and underbrush notes, silky tannins, and a long, heady finish. It should drink well for 10-15 years. (Not yet released) The master of Cornas, this estate continues to fashion a beautiful array of wines. With his son, Pierre-Marie, in charge, Auguste Clape enjoys a well-deserved retirement. In addition to outstanding Cornas, Clape also produces a very good Cotes du Rhone and Vin de Pays, both made from fruit grown just outside the Cornas appellation. 2007 is a slightly lighter vintage in Cornas than 2006, but the sweetness of the tannins, and the precociousness of the wines make the 2007 Cornas much more approachable than usual. Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524

Cuvee #1, from Tezier and Patou: Spicy red berries on the nose and palate, with a zesty undercurrent of minerals adding vivacity and cut. Precise, fresh and pure, with good lift. Cuvee #2, from Reynard: Deep cherry and cassis aromas and flavors, with gentle tannins and good grip. Gains sweetness with air, with the tannins fading into the dense fruit. The final wine should be very good, and probably accessible early.