2009 St Joseph Les Oliviers Blanc

The limited selections include the 2009 St.-Joseph Les Oliviers blanc (a 50-case cuvee of 100% Marsanne). Aromas of oranges, nectarine oil, assorted citrus and honeysuckle are followed by a full-bodied, gorgeously fruity white wine that should provide plenty of pleasure over the next 4-6 years. If the turn around in quality of the Paul Jaboulet-Aine wines is the biggest good news story of qualitative improvement in the northern Rhone, what Michel Chapoutier has accomplished with Ferraton is a close second. This is definitely a name to be taken seriously, as Chapoutier has expanded the portfolio and continues to upgrade the quality across the board. Ferraton’s 2009s and 2010s are the finest wines made to date. There appears to be three levels of quality now being produced, beginning with the generic bottlings, to the single vineyard (or lieu-dit) offerings, followed by the top of the line, more expensive, limited production efforts called selections parcellaires. Importer: A French Paradox, Peoria, IL; tel. (309) 682-8994

Greenish yellow. Very fresh, seductive aromas and flavors of orange pith, pear, crushed stone, anise and iodine. Deep, sappy and bracing, combining excellent density and silky texture with superb mineral cut. Impressively pure on the incisive, smoky finish, which shows excellent clarity. This wine reminded me of a very serious Meursault.