2007 Graacher Himmelreich Spatlese

The Prums’ 2007 Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Spatlese represents another intensification of the corresponding Kabinett. Lemon, apple, blackcurrant, peach, honeysuckle, mint, and narcissus inform the nose and palate. An invigorating alliance of citrus, apply tartness, crushed stone, and salty minerality carries into a generous, irresistible finish. Here is the epitome of delicacy and transparency in Mosel Riesling. While might be a sense in which this is marginally less profound than its fellow Prum Spatlesen, that does not make it any less delicious. Moreover, the record is clear that wines from Himmelreich are among the longest-lived and ultimately most profound of any from this address. The characteristics of great Riesling from the Prum estate coincide with one of the most striking virtues of 2007 Mosel Rieslings in general, namely the ability to combine intensity of aroma and flavor with delicacy, and caressing richness with vivacity. In a sense, the best wines in this year’s collection are like Prum-squared in their distinctiveness and expressivity. Manfred Prum acknowledges good reasons for the widespread comparison of 2007 with 2004, and thinks the present vintage also shares the richness of 2005. Notoriously little attention is paid at this address to dry-tasting wines, and I was unfortunately not able to taste either a Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Spatlese trocken or a Bernkasteler Badstube Spatlese feinherb. Nobly sweet wines which I have not yet tasted include Wehlener Sonnenuhr auction Spatlese, gold capsule Auslese, and Beerenauslese; a Graacher Himmelreich long gold capsule Auslese, and a Bernkasteler Badstube Eiswein. Various importers including: P. J. Valckenberg International, Tulsa, OK; tel 918 622 0424 and Rudi Wiest, Cellars International, Carlsbad, CA 800 596 9463