2003 Cotes du Rhone

One of the glorious things about this firm is their negociant line, called simply St.-Cosme, that includes so many extraordinary values, not to mention some profound wines at the top end. For example, the already bottled 2003 Cotes du Rhone, made from 100% Syrah from the department of the Gard, offers up lovely aromas of acacia flowers, blackberries, and creosote in an uncomplicated, fleshy, medium to full-bodied, high-octane style. This seamless, delicious, hedonistic, flavorful, textured Cotes du Rhone is a total turn-on. Enjoy it over the next 2-3 years. By the way, 2002 is a horrendous vintage in the southern Rhone. I do not say that lightly, because there are some producers who made very competent wines, but my scores for that vintage tended to plateau at 87-88. However, one of the top 2002s is the Chateau St.-Cosme 2002 Gigondas, a wine that I rated 88. Tasty and sexy with fine ripeness, it reveals no signs of dilution or greenness. The young Barruol is indeed a talented winemaker who exhibits a magical touch that is well beyond his youthful age with so many different types of wine. A Patrick Lesec Selection, various American importers, including Stacole Fine Wines, Boca Raton, FL; (561) 998-0039; Classic Wines, Boston, MA; tel. (617) 469-5799; Fine Vines LLC, Maywood, IL; tel. (708) 343-5901; and Vintage ‘59 Imports, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 966-9218