2009 Cotes du Rhone

Sweet and polished and pretty nectar-like. A bargain hint of Rayas? Very pure, sweet, just-not-jammy Grenache. Lots of fun. And no animal flavours at all. Very sweet; very transparent. GV (JR)

(65% grenache, 20% syrah and 15% cinsault): Deep red. A powerful, deeply scented bouquet evokes red and dark berries, star anise, cinnamon and pungent flowers. Packs a serious punch but there's no excess fat here; the intense raspberry and blackberry flavors show excellent clarity and a hint of candied lavender. Finishes bright and precise, with the raspberry and floral notes carrying through. This wine transcends its category and will appeal greatly to those who prize balance over brute force.

A sleeper of the vintage, the 2009 Vin de Pays, a blend of 50% Grenache, 20% Cinsault and the rest Counoise, Syrah and Mourvedre, exhibits a deep ruby color, full body and delicious floral, red berry, dusty, peppery notes. This luscious red is ideal for drinking over the next 3-4 years. This is the home estate of Emmanuel Reynaud, who has been producing the wines of Rayas since 1997. A relatively large estate of nearly 100 acres, Domaine des Tours fashions some remarkable value priced reds and whites. Importer: Martine’s Wines, Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-0400