2011 Cotes du Roussillon Vieilles Vignes

Downright grippy and sappy, with a resinous quality that’s hard to describe, the 2011 Cotes du Roussillon Villages Vieilles Vignes comes all from schist and limestone soils and is a blend of 50% Syrah (from 50+-year-old vines), 25% Carignan (from 125 year-old vines) and 25% Grenache (from 55-year-old vines) that spent 24 months in barrel. It offers up a spectacular bouquet of liquefied herbs, rosemary, scrub brush, pepper and dark berry fruit that continues to evolve and change over the evening. Medium to full-bodied on the palate, with a vibrant, energetic, yet also firm and tannic feel, it should be hidden in the cellar for another 2-3 years, and enjoyed over the following decade or more. While it lacks a touch of the density and richness found in the Muntada, it’s a gorgeous wine that possesses brilliant character and depth. One of the top estates in France, Domaine Gauby is run by the talented Gerard and Lionel Gauby. While I wasn’t able to visit with them on this trip, I was able to taste through a full lineup of their 2011s, from bottle, in Colorado. The wines are stunning across the board, with their new single vineyard releases showing distinctive, singular characters. Importer: Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0700; fax (610) 486-6452; www.weygandtmetzler.com