2004 Dorsheimer Burgberg Spatlese

Water white. Very particular, distinctive nose more reminiscent of gum than Riesling. Opulently fruity palate with real nerve. White peaches. Quite open and very friendly. (JR)

Consistent with the performance of its Kabinett sibling, the 2004 Dorsheimer Burgberg Riesling Spatlese exhibits smoke-tinged, estrous aromas of apple cider and applejack. A burst of juicy fruitiness on the palate is underlain by an adamant chalky substrate, and the long finish takes a turn toward apple jelly, peach preserves and herbal and red-fruited candy. As the wine opens, it becomes evident that some of the smoke and high tones are attributable to botrytis. Yet, this wine remains rooted in its sappy primary fruit and deep chalky mineral substrate. Chock full of both fruit and mineral matter, here is a Spatlese that is almost certain to open up delicious and exciting new vistas as its sweetness resolves, as well as to cellar well for a couple of decades. Incidentally, readers with the requisite disposable income are urged to explore Diel’s 2003 T.B.A. (from the Pittermanchen), which was unfortuitously also being bottled the day I visited. Wine Advocate.October, 2005