2009 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Auslese

A Loosen 2009 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese suggests candied and almost over-ripe apple on the nose as well as on a slickly-oily palate. Brown spices and apple skin offer some counterpoint and there is admirable delicacy here despite the superficial sweetness and borderline decadence. But the offsetting minerality or pure, juicy primary fruit that help render the best residually sweet wines in the present collection memorable are only hinted at here for now. I’m sure this will be good for at least 20 years. “I want real Kabinetts,” says Ernst Loosen by way of explaining his early start on the 2009 harvest, “between 80 and 83 Oechsle, with crisp acidity, freshness, and the like; and you can’t wait around, especially when you have five, maybe seven days of Kabinett-picking to do and every day ripeness is rising. This year, we wanted to delineate even more sharply the difference between Kabinett and Spatlese, as well as a distinct difference between Spatlese and Auslese.” In practical terms, this meant among other things slightly reducing the levels of residual sugar in the Kabinetts (Loosen says that trend will continue incrementally); and reserving botrytis fruit solely for wines labeled “Auslese.” Eiswein from Lay, Treppchen, and Sonnenuhr; Eiswein and T.B.A. from Pralat; as well as a T.B.A. from Wurzgarten were all – according to cellarmaster Bernhard Schug – in various states of fermentation or preparation for bottling when I visited in September, so consequently I shall review those wines (or at least some subset thereof) at such time as I report on the 2010 vintage. Importer: Loosen Brothers, Portland, OR tel. (510) 864-7255