2012 Thalassitis Assyrtiko

Bottled with a high level of sulphites so that it could age – straight Assyrtiko gets 28­–30 mg/l free (higher and it will stink at low pH); this one had 65 mg/l. Has a slight kerosene note as well as the cedary/resin. Very tight. A toasty note like Hunter Valley Semillon. Very tight and stony. So dry, but less textured than 2018. A bit flat on the finish. (JH)

The 2012 Thalassitis, the tank-fermented version, is one of Greece’s more familiar and finer whites. Its vineyard source at Episkopi is “composed entirely of 70-to-80 year-old, ungrafted vines with a dramatically low yield never exceeding 25 hectoliters per hectare.” Owner Yiannis Paraskevopoulos says that 2012 is a somewhat friendlier vintage than 2011, so perhaps a little infanticide is in order for this just-released wine. Friendlier it may be, but there is still plenty of stuff here. There is no malolactic fermentation – but then, says the winery, Santorini’s climate means that there is no malic acid. With fine solidity and crisp acidity supporting the fruit, plus an amazingly pure, transparent and freshly bottled nuance, this is just lovely on opening, clean and long, although not quite as mouth-coating as sometimes seen. Yes, it seems rather friendly initially, its balance quite impeccable. “Seems” was a key word there. It was, to be sure, completely unevolved as the subsequent course of events proved. When revisited the next day, it was just a little less friendly and more interesting – not unusual with young, top of the line Assyrtiko. Indeed, that’s par for the course. They have to be resampled the next day. The acidity was a bit more dominant, the underlying power was showing more. Suddenly, the unassuming and friendly, fruity finish on Day 1 was quite gripping and intense. On the third day, it was even more powerful as it warmed and aired out, showing remarkable grip, power and intensity and more underlying stuffing than I thought it had. It simply grabbed the palate. While it is an interesting and still enjoyable variation to drink this so young, I do not believe this is its highest and best use by a long shot. Consumers should hold this at least until summer for better results. For that matter, it is likely to show even better in the summer of 2014. Given its youthful and unevolved state, let’s be a little conservative at the moment, but this seems right in line with the fine bottlings coming from Gai’a. Drink now-2020. This issue includes the first of the 2012 Santorinis that has crossed my desk (bottled in November, tasted in late January). It seems very early to be getting it, but in the interest of timeliness, I released this note because release dates for the wine have moved up and demand for this popular bottling follows soon after. Perhaps I (and others) should stop praising them. But that would be difficult to do. Importer: Athenee Importers & Distributors Ltd., Hempstead, NY; tel. (516) 505-4800