2005 Vouvray Sec Le Haut-Lieu

The 2005 Vouvray Sec Le Haut Lieu smells positively mineral and carnal in its meld of ocean breeze, chicken stock, and snuffed candle wick, but neither does it stint on floral dimensions. With brothy richness, ample quince fruit, and pistachio nuttiness on the palate, the wine also displays positively gripping brightness of ripe acidity and tactile apple skin, grapefruit zest, and chalk dust, leading to a long, subtly nipping, tingling finish. It will probably be more satisfying in a year or two and be worth following for a decade. Importer: Robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 757-8185. Also, a Christopher Cannan Europvin Selection (various importers), Bordeaux; fax 001-33-5 57-87-43-22