2009 Monzinger Halenberg Auslese

At 8.5% alcohol and entering the realm of botrytis, the Schonlebers’ 2009 Monzinger Halenberg Riesling Auslese was harvested October 25 in a portion of its Einzellage that every year is relatively conducive to noble rot, “though I can’t really figure out why that’s so,” remarks Werner Schonleber. Around half the fruit here, however, was healthy and golden, while the most advanced botrytis and the thoroughly-shriveled berries were segregated to inform this year’s T.B.A. Brown spiced apple; almost overripe pear and musk melon; and quince preserves in the nose migrate to a glossy, glycerin-rich palate, joined by salted caramel, marzipan, and hazelnut paste. For all of its confectionary tendencies, this delicate, dreamy, striking Auslese remains lusciously juicy through its luxuriously lingering finish. I suspect that the balance rather gently struck here will be preserved for at least the next 25 years. Werner and Frank Schonleber harvested through nearly the entire month of October, and noted that levels of sugar and total acidity remained fairly constant, while flavors kept improving and malic acid diminishing in favor of tartaric. Speaking of improving, it’s hard for these two vintners to much-improve their by now phenomenal batting average, but no Riesling lover is likely to suffer the least disappointment by buying bottles of Emrich-Schonleber 2009s. Especially at its dry end, this is a collection to describe which seems to call for an extended mineral vocabulary that doesn’t even exist in English or German! And in nobly sweet echelons, the small amount of Riesling the Schonlebers rendered is strikingly successful and informed by an ample if mysterious measure of sheer juiciness. About the absence of Eiswein, Frank Schonleber notes: “We had the feeling that ripeness had simply advanced too far in 2009 to justify leaving any grapes hanging in anticipation of frost.” Imported by Sussex Wine Merchants, Moorestown, NJ; tel. (856) 608 9644; also imported by Dee Vine Wines, San Francisco, CA tel. (877) 389- 9463