2009 Vacqueyras

Bright ruby. Raspberry and cherry aromas and flavors are complicated by suggestions of peppery spices and smoke. Shows a touch of heat on the clinging finish, which echoes the cherry note.

The 2009 Vacqueyras, a blend of mostly Grenache with some Syrah, boasts a dense purple color along with a beautiful bouquet of black raspberries, blueberry pie, camphor and white flowers. Rich, pure, medium to full-bodied and velvety textured, this beauty can be enjoyed over the next 3-5 years. Michel Maret’s estate of 45+ acres is primarily in the eastern and northern sectors of the appellation, with large holdings in La Crau and the well-known lieu-dit of Brusquieres. His daughters, Caroline and Veronique, seem to be taking over more and more of the responsibilities and add to the remarkable number of women who seem to be in positions of influence and control in Chateauneuf du Pape. There are always four cuvees in the top vintages, but the Marets have added a fifth cuvee, dominated by Mourvedre with the balance Grenache, called L’Envol. This wine is a completely different take on Chateauneuf du Pape, one I am seeing appear more frequently in my tastings. The 2009s all performed better out of bottle than they did last year. These are classic, traditional styles of Chateauneuf du Pape. As insiders know, the finest value from the Maret family is their Vacqueyras made from the 10 acres they own in that appellation. Importer: Alain Junguenet, Wines of France, Mountainside, NJ; tel. (908) 654-6173

Purplish crimson. Rather mild and evolved on the nose – plum jam. Easy and frank and user-friendly with some interest. Perhaps not the most ambitious but well made and should be fun in the short term. (JR)