2005 Gigondas

Along with Saint Cosme, Yves Gras’s Santa Duc is the leading estate in Gigondas, and he’s produced two brilliant 2005s. Looking first at his traditional cuvee, the 2005 Gigondas Tradition is made from 80% Grenache, 10% Syrah, 5% Mourvèdre and the balance Cinsault that comes from a mix of lieux-dits spread through the appellation. Completely destemmed and aged in a combination of foudre and smaller barrels, it has a gorgeous, seamless, traditional style to go with classic notes of jammy blackberries, garrigue, wild herbs, pepper and spice. Drinking at point, with medium to full-bodied richness, high quality tannin and tons of finesse and elegance, enjoy this beauty anytime over the coming decade.

Saturated ruby. Very ripe, powerful blackberry and cassis aromas verging on jammy. Thick, sweet and deep, with superripe flavors of dark fruit liqueur and round, pliant tannins. Fans of outsized wines will prize this more than I, but it's undeniably impressive.

Super ripe, burnt flavours on the nose. Very dry and drying on the finish – not quite enough succulence for me on the mid palate. May well get there but it's awfully stark at the moment – quite an assault on the palate! NB this wine had not yet gone through malolactic. (JR)